BOLSA Belt Bag
Progress
0 / 10
Project overview
Your BOLSA journey starts here
Welcome! You're about to crochet a beautiful belt bag from scratch. We'll go piece by piece, step by step. No rushing, no skipping. By the end you'll have a real bag you made with your own hands.
Pocket 25 × 15 × 7 cm
25 cm
Width
15 cm
Height
7 cm
Depth
Pieces to complete
Begin with Materials and Crochet basics before making any pieces. A little preparation saves a lot of unravelling later!
Lesson 1
Gather your supplies
Before your first stitch, make sure you have everything on this list. Missing a supply halfway through is no fun at all!
Yarn
Lankava Moi braided yarnYellow
80% recycled cotton · 20% polyester · 450 g total
Hook & gauge
4.5 mm crochet hook
Use this exact size to match the gauge
Gauge — very important!
14 sc × 14 rows = 10 cm
Always make a gauge swatch before starting. If it's too big, go down a hook size. Too small — go up a size.
Other supplies
Zipper — 30 cm
Any colour works — matching or contrast
Strong cotton sewing yarn
For sewing pieces together — must be sturdy
Leather belt — 80–90 cm
Will be split and threaded through the belt tabs
Light pink cord — 35 cm
Decorative cord detail on the top of the bag
Cord lock × 1 + Cord stops × 2
Hardware for the decorative cord
Lesson 2
Skills you need
This bag uses just four techniques. Spend a few minutes practising each one before you begin — they're easier than they look!
ch 1 ch 2 ch 3 ch 4
ch
Chain stitch
Yarn over, pull through loop. Repeat to build a chain of the correct length. This is the foundation of everything!
Keep tension even — each chain link should be the same size. Don't pull too tight or the chain won't lie flat.
sc sc sc next foundation chain below
sc
Single crochet
Insert hook → yarn over → pull up loop (2 loops on hook) → yarn over → pull through both loops. That's one sc done!
Single crochet makes a tight, sturdy fabric — exactly right for a bag that needs to hold its shape under daily use.
sl sl sl sl used on the pocket top edge
sl st
Slip stitch
Insert hook → yarn over → pull through BOTH loops at once in a single motion. Creates a flat, firm edge or seam.
Used on the top edge of the pocket — keeps the opening firm so it won't stretch over time.
4 3 2 1 turn turn ch 1 at start of each new row, then sc across
End of every row
ch 1 → turn your work → sc across → repeat all the way to your last row.
Always turn in the same direction — usually away from you. Inconsistent turning causes wavy, uneven edges.
The ch 1 at the start of each row does NOT count as a stitch! Start your sc in the very first stitch of the row — not into the chain.

Row counter — tap while practising
0
rows completed
Piece 1 of 6
Front piece
The face of your bag! A plain rectangle in single crochet — 30 stitches wide and 20 rows tall. Simple and satisfying.
30 sc wide 20 rows tall 20 rows edge: 20 sc · 30 sc · 20 sc
Crochet map
  START → chain 31 stitches
  ══════════════════════════════ (31 ch)

  ROW 1   sc in 2nd ch from hook
          sc across → 30 sc total
  ←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←←

  ROW 2   ch 1, turn
          30 sc
  →→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→→
          ... repeat until ROW 20

  EDGE    20 sc up the side  ↕
          30 sc along bottom →
          20 sc down the side ↕
Starting chain
Chain 31. Count out loud as you go — getting this right means getting the correct width.
Row 1
Skip the first chain (the one right on your hook). Single crochet into every remaining chain. You should have exactly 30 sc. Count before turning!
Rows 2–20
Chain 1, turn. Single crochet across (30 sc). Repeat this same row 18 more times until you have 20 rows total.
Edge round
Work 20 sc up one side → 30 sc across the bottom → 20 sc down the other side. This prepares the edges for neat sewing.
Always turn in the same direction to keep your edges perfectly straight. Place a stitch marker on the last stitch of each row until you get the feel of it.
Piece 2 of 6
Back piece
Identical to the front! Follow the exact same steps. The goal is two pieces that are the same size when you lay one on top of the other.
FRONT 30 sc × 20 rows = BACK 30 sc × 20 rows
Before assembly, hold both pieces together. They should be exactly the same size. If one is bigger, count the rows and frog (unravel) the extra ones.
Starting chain
Chain 31.
Row 1
Skip first chain. Work 30 sc across.
Rows 2–20
ch 1, turn, 30 sc. Repeat for 20 total rows.
Edge
20 sc side + 30 sc bottom + 20 sc other side.
Piece 3 of 6
Pocket
A smaller rectangle that attaches to the front of the bag. The slip-stitch top edge makes it firm and tidy so the opening doesn't stretch.
Front piece (background) slip stitch edge (firm) Pocket 26 sc × 14 rows centred on front piece · left open at top
Starting chain
Chain 27.
Row 1
Skip first chain. Work 26 sc across.
Rows 2–14
ch 1, turn, 26 sc. Repeat for 14 rows total.
Edge
14 sc up one side → 26 sc along the bottom → 14 sc down the other side → then 26 slip stitches along the top.
The slip-stitch top edge is naturally tighter than sc — this keeps the pocket opening from stretching over time and gives it a clean, professional finish.
Piece 4 of 6
Side piece
This long strip creates the depth of the bag — the 3D part! It's simple but longer than the other pieces, so take your time with the chain.
Side strip — 60 sc × 8 rows wraps around the bottom + two short sides of the bag this is how it looks once sewn into the bag
Starting chain
Chain 61. This is your longest chain — count carefully and double-check before you start Row 1.
Row 1
Skip first chain. Work 60 sc across.
Rows 2–8
ch 1, turn, 60 sc. Repeat for 8 rows total. The 8 rows give you approximately 7 cm of depth.
60 stitches is easy to miscount! Place a stitch marker every 10 stitches across your first row to make counting easier.
After finishing, lay the strip flat and check its length against the bottom + two short sides of your front piece. It should wrap around perfectly.
Piece 5 of 6
Zipper pieces × 2
Make two identical thin strips that sandwich the zipper, holding it neatly between the front and back of the bag. Make both now so they're ready for assembly.
Zipper piece 1 (44 sc × 5 rows) Zipper — 30 cm Zipper piece 2 (44 sc × 5 rows) sew the long edge → zipper is sandwiched inside ↑ sew here
Make each piece the same way:
Starting chain
Chain 45.
Row 1
Skip first chain. Work 44 sc across.
Rows 2–5
ch 1, turn, 44 sc. Just 5 rows total — these pieces stay thin on purpose.
Make the second one
Repeat to make an identical second piece. Label them with a scrap of yarn so you remember which is which.
Both pieces must be the same size for the zipper to sit straight. Lay them on top of each other before moving on.
Piece 6 of 6
Belt pieces × 2
Two small tabs that the leather belt threads through. These start narrow and widen slightly — your first time using increases. Don't worry, it's just two sc in the same stitch!
Belt tab widens toward bottom 6 ch start (narrow) wider at base — belt threads through here
Starting chain
Chain 6. Much shorter than the other pieces!
Build up
Work several rows, adding extra stitches on the bottom edge as you go. Work 2 sc into the same stitch to increase — this is the widening you can see in the diagram above.
Make the second one
Repeat to make a second identical tab. Both tabs go on opposite sides of the bag at the same height.
An increase = 2 sc into the same stitch. It adds one extra stitch and makes the piece gradually wider row by row.
Assembly workshop
Sewing it all together
All your pieces are made — this is where the magic happens! Take it one step at a time. The bag takes shape quickly once you start sewing.
1
Attach the pocket to the front piece
Centre the pocket on the front piece, about 1.5 cm from the sides and bottom. Pin in place. Sew along the bottom and two short sides using strong cotton yarn and a whipstitch. Leave the top edge open.
2
Thread and attach the cord
Thread the 35 cm pink cord through the cord lock. Add a cord stop to each end. This cord sits decoratively along the top of the bag. Set it aside until zipper assembly.
3
Attach the zipper
Layer your pieces like a sandwich: Zipper piece 1 → Zipper (facing down) → Zipper piece 2. Sew through all layers along the long edge. Flip right-side out — the zipper sits neatly between both crochet strips. Add a second reinforcing seam 3 mm away.
Zipper piece 1 Zipper (30 cm) Zipper piece 2 sew along this edge
4
Attach the side strip
Pin the side strip along the bottom and two short edges of the front piece. Sew the short sides first, then the long bottom. The bag will start looking 3D — this is the exciting part!
5
Close the bag with the back piece
Attach the back piece to the free edge of the side strip. Sew all the way around. Then attach the zipper unit across the top opening, sewing it securely to both front and back. Attach belt tabs on each side at the desired position.
Final step
Finishing touches
Almost there! Attach the leather belt and do your final quality check. Then your BOLSA is ready to wear out into the world.
Leather belt attachment
Step 1 — split the belt ends
Using an awl or craft knife, split the leather at both ends of the belt so each end can thread through one crocheted belt tab.
Step 2 — punch holes
Punch two small holes in each leather end, close to the edge, for sewing.
Step 3 — sew securely
Using strong cotton yarn, sew through the holes and around the crocheted belt tab. Use at least 4 passes through each hole. Give the belt a firm tug to test it before finishing.
Final quality check
Zipper opens and closes smoothly
Pocket is securely attached and opens cleanly
Belt tabs are firmly sewn — no wobble under tension
All yarn ends are woven in and hidden inside the seams
Bag holds its shape when gently filled
Help section
Knit happens 🧶
Something looks off? That's completely normal. Every crocheter hits these snags. Here are the most common problems and exactly how to fix them.
My edges are uneven
Always turn your work in the same direction. Check: are you accidentally crocheting into the turning ch? Don't — that adds an extra stitch and makes the edge grow wider over time.
My bag is too small
Your gauge is off. Try a new swatch with a larger hook (5.0 mm). With recycled cotton, tension can vary a lot from person to person and even day to day.
My zipper looks loose or puckered
Add a second line of stitching parallel to the first seam, about 3 mm away. This reinforces the zipper attachment significantly and prevents it from sagging.
My pieces don't match in size
Count rows on both pieces before sewing. Lay them flat on top of each other — if one is larger, frog (unravel) the extra rows. Always count before assembly!
I lost count of my rows
Lay your piece flat and count the "V" shapes going vertically up the edge — each column equals one row. Use the row counter in the Crochet basics lesson next time!
My yarn is splitting or tangling
Braided yarn twists back on itself as you work. Every 20 rows or so, let your hook hang freely and spin to untwist. Working from the centre of the ball also helps a lot.
Share your progress
What stage are you at? Share photos and questions with your community!
"I just finished the front piece and I'm so proud — the yellow is even brighter in real life!"
"My gauge was way off on the first try. So glad I did the swatch!"
"The zipper step felt scary but the second-seam tip totally saved me."
Show your pieces Ask a question Celebrate a win